The Marketplace will not be quite the same as before,  and they want input from their former Designers/Sellers to replace the lost Marketplace database. There is a link in the email, but Work has blocked my access to the new Aerodrome, and I can't attach it by my phone. 

I'll try to add it here when I get home this evening. 

Cheers 🍺

Tim

So to make it easier for WWI and WW2 searching I made a spreadsheet for each. Now you can search

to your hearts content! (don't blame me if you spend too much!)(wish I got commission!)

I list 1/144 for WWI.

I list 1/200 and 1/144 for WW2.

I list the accessories on their own. You'll find all sorts of goodies like ground targets, pilots, gunners, Zeppelin parts, balloons...

I list plane, type, version, notes, price (sometimes for multiples 4/$15.55), and importantly, maker.

I hope this helps all those out there getting Shapeways planes. If I missed any let me know and I'll ad them in.

Reading this file...WWI

Col A Make, Col B Type, Col C Version, Col D Notes, Col E Price 4/15.25 = 4 planes at $15.25 2/ 9.00 = 2 planes for $9.00

Col F model designer, Col G++ link to specific plane page starting with highest number of multiples first on to singles last.

WW2

Col A scale, Col B make, Col C type, ...notes, price and designer and links.

Most WW1 prices are not up to date. I update a few every time I update the list. To get the up to date price use the link to the Shapeways page.

Those marked 'nfs' are at the moment not for sale.

WWI List

This file was last updated on 21 September 2021

WGF.xls

The latest in 3d printing

Here is a link to RAF's printed-painted planes!

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/raf?section=%3D%3D%3D%3D+Full-Color+Models+%3D%3D%3D%3D&s=0

WW2 list

This file was last updated on 21 September 2021

WGS.xls

Accessories (all non-plane) items are now on their own list.

This file was last updated on 7 April 2024

WGA.xls

For other models in resin and metal see pbhawkin's thread 'HERE'.

Here's a picture of the real thing (note the camera and bomb racks).

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83806&d=1364817585

My version.

What to use?

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83808&d=1364817704

Magnets!

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83810&d=1364817712

Armed up.

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83804&d=1364816830

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83807&d=1364817700

The one with the yellow nose is Huston and Blennerhasset. A rare bit of colour for the RFC!

I didn't have any bases for a nose gunner plane so made some from a sheet of 3mm perspex, a Jigsaw, file and drill. I put a ruler peg just in front of the flight peg and marked the firing ark with a permanent marker on the underside of the base. These came out better than I expected.

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83812&d=1364817719

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83813&d=1364817723

I really like these multi role fighter bombers and look forward to taking them for a spin.

Ian

https://www.tctmagazine.com/additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/latest-additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/shapeways-ceases-operations-and-files-for-bankruptcy/

Thanks!

While I have a few modelist friends to guide me through the painting and decorating process, my question is - how do I go about finding/fabricating the base and the manouvering deck for my own Ww1 minis?

Do you old hands have any tried and tested tips or can you direct me towards the best possible options?

Thank you in advance!

FREE Shipping (even International) on orders of $50 or more until the end of this month.

My surface prep consisted of a one hour soak in full-strength Simple Green, then rising under the faucet, then a couple hours soak in clean tap water, then being mostly dried with a largely lint-free towel before being left to finish air-drying. I had 'thought' this was about correct. I'm assuming I messed something up, so what's the correct gray detail pre-painting cleaning and surface prep process?

Thanks.

The good news is that they already have a replacement in their "Gray Fine Detail Plastic", and they'll be adding a Tan option also. I've only got one test print in that material, but it is less brittle -- with some slight flex to thin parts. Less flex than "Versatile Plastic" (nee "WSF"). More like the PA12 (MJF) material in flexibility. I think it will be good for the gaming table! And it shows detail very well.

This mostly affects 1:285 and smaller models because the Detail Plastic materials have always been quite a bit more expensive than Versatile Plastic and PA12 at 1:144 scale. However, I believe that the new materials will be a nice option at 1:144 if you want to pay roughly 3× the price for a much more detailed and accurate model. I'll post a picture when I order one in 1:144.

The picture below shows a pair of 1:288 Hansa-Brandenburg W29s in the (translucent) Grey Fine Detail Plastic material. The first is unprimed and shows some stepping lines, the second has been primed and the stepping lines mostly fade away... even more so if it were painted. The paper clip is standard size (32mm long) and gives you an idea of scale.

Code FREESHIP100 is valid for free standard shipping for Marketplace orders only. Valid on all orders of US$100 or more, with a maximum discount of US$34.99. Code can be used multiple times per person. Code cannot be combined with other offers. Offer subject to change without notice. Code is valid until an undisclosed end date.

• Is it already active? I assume so, but I'm not sure.
  
• When does it end? Don't know.
  
• Does it cover shipping outside of the U.S.? Don't know. Worth trying though! This may be especially useful to folks in places where the Shapeways shipping costs are inordinately high.
  

Good luck with it!

It is a very small kingdom I offer, the size of a postage stamp really, but if Shapeways designers can provide us with the Curtiss JN-4 Jenny (thank you Colinwe), and the Kettering Bug (thanks Z's, Kampfflieger, and Columbia Aerodrome), then certainly we can see a Tommy! Did it see service? Yes, albeit as a trainer. But how cool is the Tommy? It was made in large numbers, became the iconic World War I movie plane after the war, and looks darn good.

In looking at the unofficial stats file, it appears there might be a few ratings issues:

Altitude - Service ceiling was 15,000 feet, so a rating of 5 is right out.

Climb - Could climb at a rate between the Albatros D.II and D.III, closer to the latter, so the rating of 11 is really off.

I am thinking the stats team might have the numbers reversed on the spreadsheet, and I would suggest the climb rate be 4.

Strnad, Frank. The Thomas Morse Scout. London: Profile Publications, 1966.

Swanborough, Gordon and Bowers, Peter. United States Navy Aircraft since 1911. London:Putnam, Second edition, 1976.

I have a Shapeways mini that I would like to repaint and would like to strip the model right back first. What method has anyone successfully used that doesn’t attack the original surface? I’m worried that anything too aggressive might damage the surface.

Since I'd be using it for 1/1800 ships and 1/900 planes, detail plastic of some form is a must for the ships, and normal Fine Detail is actually just barely acceptable in terms of brittle for the ships. For them the bigger problem with FD is the lack of UV-stability for elaborately painted and potentially large-area decaled models. (And having the same decay with the glue I use for a few of them.) If the new Clear Ultra Fine Detail is UV stable then I'w switching to using it. The 1/900 planes Fine Detail is too brittle for, but the forces on them won't be all that high, and something between Versatile Plastic and Fine Detail would be enough. (And the planes need clear flight stands, so the "clear" part makes it a natural choice for them.) For Wings of Glory, if it turns out to be strength/durability wise between FD and Versatile Plastic, it might actually wind up being an acceptable alternate material that doesn't need surface prep.

http://www.shapeways.com/model/334308/1_144_roland_d_ii.html?gid=sg85287

I put the model in a hot water bath -- 160 to 170 degrees F -- for 20 to 30 seconds, then removed the model from the hot water and attempted to straighten the tail booms, holding them for a minute. But when I release the model, the tail booms spring back to the warped shape.

How hot does the water need to be? How long should I leave the model in the hot water bath?

https://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/entry.php?467-And-For-My-Next-Trick

Let's gather all these good tips in one sticky thread. If you have wisdom to share on this topic, please follow up here. Please note that this topic can also include de-warping WSF models that have been bent during shipping.

You might also find some tips on the Shapeways forums under Finishing Techniques.

I'm assuming that red is the frontal arc and blue is the rear gunner arc but what does the violet arc(s) indicate?

A present from my wife arrived this morning - a bit early but just in time for our first stoush for 2023 at my place on Tuesday. I fell an early war scenario coming on!

I’ve never ordered from Shapeways (that I can remember) and wanted to ask some advice. I was going to order some WW1 Biplanes in 1:144 scale. I have NO idea what I’m doing. Or what vendors to order from.

Could I kindly ask for some Shapeways advice for Biplanes? In 1:144 scale? What vendors? What specs?

Thank you guys. I’m trying to learn!

~Chuck.

The stripes are self made decals - not as much as on the original, but as much as Wingrips on the shapeways-model.

Thanks to Collin!!

Matthias

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58353&d=1345837664

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58355&d=1345837664

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58354&d=1345837664

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58356&d=1345837664

2 Pfalz e-1, from shapeways