Repints: smooth detailed finish

[Pseudotheist]

So, I noticed that most of the other models in the repaint contest have the paint applied very smoothly so that not only does it not obscure any detail, but it leaves no evidence of texture from the paint. This is one aspect where my painting falls decidedly short. I was hoping some of you might be able to give me some tips and maybe engage in some discussion to help me figure out how to improve on this.

I'm also hoping that there's solutions other than "get an airbrush" or "do 8 coats of inks", but if that's how it's to be done, I'd at least like to know...

[Oberst Hajj]

Todd, the key to getting smooth coverage is the consistency of your paint. It really needs to be much thinner then what most people think. Try to get your paints to the consistency of about skim or 2% milk. It will take more coats, but the results are very worth it.

I've attached some images of other miniatures that I have painted (sorry, have not done any Wings of War repaints yet).

[The Blue Baron]

So, I noticed that most of the other models in the repaint contest have the paint applied very smoothly so that not only does it not obscure any detail, but it leaves no evidence of texture from the paint. This is one aspect where my painting falls decidedly short. I was hoping some of you might be able to give me some tips and maybe engage in some discussion to help me figure out how to improve on this.

I'm also hoping that there's solutions other than "get an airbrush" or "do 8 coats of inks", but if that's how it's to be done, I'd at least like to know...

You should use acrylic paints and you never should use them straight from the pot. Diluting 1:1 with water is a good rule of thumb for the beginning but it really depends on the paints you use. Another thing is to use goog paints e.g. Vallejo Game Color, Gamesworkshop Citadel,...

This is the page where I learned the basics.
(My plane repaints do not look too good because I used old paints and did not remember to thin it down. It's incredible how much you forget if you do not paint for some years...)

[Pseudotheist]

o.k. So, here's where it branches into other aspects of painting. I already have a lot of colors taking 2 coats to cover, and I usually end up having to touch up most of the major colors at least once. With thinner paint and more coats, I assume I'll end up with a lot more of that, as well as having fuzzier edges at my color transition due to the multiple coats. Is that not the case? How do I ensure I maintain sharp transitions and uniform coloration with thinner paints?

[Oberst Hajj]

The use of quality paints like Blue Baron mentioned will cut down on the number of coats that you will need. Also, as long as you "stay within the lines", you will not have problems with fuzziness. You can also line the edges of color separations with a slightly darker color to help clean them up.


This mini shows clean edges and separation between colors and it was painted using thinned down paints like I mentioned before.

[Belis4rius]

I use GW paints and find they are fairly thin, if using yellow or red I first cover the area in white, the two colours I mention usually need a couple of coats but they are thin anyway. I don't normally deliberately thin any of the paint. I might however do so if I mix up several colours for an effect.

[IRM]

Tamiya paints are about the right "thickness" straight out of the pot, and give a nice uniform finish IMO. You do need at least 2 coats, so I really only use them for the base colour. Vallejo paints are my preference for everything else since you can get away with one coat, which I like for painting camo or markings.

Regarding repaints, only the models with full-wing decals tend to lose any detail (at least with any I've done so far). I redid 3 of the Udet Albatros DVas at the weekend and was able to scrape off the top wing decal with a knife. Just be VERY careful not to damage the model.

[The Blue Baron]

I use GW paints and find they are fairly thin, if using yellow or red I first cover the area in white, the two colours I mention usually need a couple of coats but they are thin anyway. I don't normally deliberately thin any of the paint. I might however do so if I mix up several colours for an effect.

For a good result you should allways prime the model. Use white primer if you want to paint light colours and blach if you want to paint darker colours.

[Pseudotheist]

For a good result you should allways prime the model. Use white primer if you want to paint light colours and blach if you want to paint darker colours.

And if you're doing a partial repaint, like many of Dom's sets, would you re-do the whole model, prime the sections to be repainted, or skip the primer?

[The Blue Baron]

I have not worked with decals so far therefore I caoont answer that one...

[IRM]

I haven't found it necessary to prime repaints so far (I do prime anything else), and I think that it might be best to use as few layers as possible unless you strip the model down to the bare plastic (no idea how you could manage this without melting the model). Perhaps if the original colour is much darker than the colour you're repainting it you might have to prime it white ?

[The Blue Baron]

I just remembered that I read somewhere that you should paint the region where you want to apply the decal white because than the colours of the decal look better.

[Charlie3]

And if you're doing a partial repaint, like many of Dom's sets, would you re-do the whole model, prime the sections to be repainted, or skip the primer?

I would reccommend that you DO prime the model with a white primer to enhance the color of the decals. Then coat or lightly spray it with a clear gloss paint.

Decals stick best to a gloss surface especially heavily textured surfaces like the ribbed wings on most of these planes. Also I would reccommend the use of a decal setting solution to get them to snuggle down and seal the edges.

Then set them aside to dry for 24 hours NO TOUCHIE! When the time is up, LIGHTLY spray the plane with a clear dull paint (I like Testers Dull Cote best) to seal the decals from finger and snack food oils, and to get rid of that shinny toy look.

The last step is too take to the skies and look for targets for your new plane!

[thumper7458]

Ok here it goes a little painting lesson (I’m not as good as Col Hajj )
1) Use the right paint:
I prefer acrylic as it is easier to clean up, the bad side is it dries really fast, I prefer GW paint but Vallejo, Reaper, Privateer Press are just as good and some would say better, This quality does come at a price, in Canada a 12-17ml pot might set you back about $4-$5 each

2) Paint consistency
To get the paint to go on smoothly it should be relatively thin, GW paint get thinned 50:50 Paint to water solution (I make a solution of water and "Future Floor wax" to mix into my paint). Yes it will require more coats to be fully opaque but you won't see any brush strokes. Foundation paints by GW at heavily pigmented and very thick but if watered down and applied as a base they can help you with covering dark colours with light colours

3) Brushes
As a hobbyist, I have a collection of different brushes from different manufacturers ranging from a measly $1 all the way up to $20 each, my best brushes being the coveted Windsor & Newton Series 7 brushes which are highly sought after by many professional painters. Now I'm not saying you need to spend your life savings on a brush but a good brush for the average painter should cost about $3-$5 each

I don’t want to turn this thread into something it wasn't intended to be but these 3 tips will get you headed in the right direction and hopefully help you with your painting,
if you would like more assistance I am more than happy to help, My YouTube channel has about 40 or so vids with tips and tricks to painting miniature figs scattered through them, I'm sure that you can apply some of the techniques to painting WoW miniatures

Edited for spelling

[Oberst Hajj]

You can get better coverage for colors like yellow and bright red by first painting the area a light gray. I find this works better then painting them over white. You will need to do a few coats to get the brightness, but it takes less coats then over pure white.