Shapeways full color prints --- any surface modification?

First question on this forum for me:

I have some Shapeways Reduced Aircraft Factory full color nylon printed airplane models on the way. I understand that the surface comes out rough and very matte. Do folks here treat the surfaces in any way to make them more smooth and maybe add a bit of shine? I don't want to load the models with heavy gloss, but am anticipating wanting to make them a little bit closer to the finish of the WoW/WoG/WGF plastic models.

I understand that the nylon prints may warp, and that people dunk them in warm water (not boiling) alternately with cool water to have the printed models return to shape. Would it interfere with this possible future need to put anything on the surface of these models?

Warpup
Oregon, USA

[I moved this post so it could be next to other full-color 3D print threads.]

I haven't seen much warping since Shapeways started shipping them in cages. If you see any, there are some tips on straightening here: https://www.poeland.com/Shapeways/sh...s-warping.html.

As to the gloss factor, I've had some luck with using several coats of spray gloss or satin finish. You should always test these sprays on the throwaway cage or -- at least -- the underside first, in case your brand of spray melts the plastic or the colors. But that didn't happen with the spray I was using. And of course to use lots and lots of thin coats.

Others may have more tips for you. I need to experiment with it more, but the weather is presently too cold.

I'll be watching this thread as I, too, would like just a little more 'snap' in my RAF colour models, closer to the earlier (more expensive) versions.
Daryl, can you give us the brand(s) of spray you used?

I spray on a light satin coat. Then I brush on a layer of matte coat. Makes the colors more defined and helps smooth out the nylon surface a little.

I think I was using Krylon gloss "Preserve it" or Army Painter satin, but I'm not sure. It was months ago.

A little experiment on full color nylon: two coats of clear spray about 15 minutes apart, pics under same lighting and position, drying time identical, over an hour.

SE5 as shipped
Attachment 336168Attachment 336169

SE5 after two coats of Rust-oleum matte clear enamel spray
Attachment 336171Attachment 336172
Attachment 336170

Dolphin as shipped
Attachment 336173Attachment 336174

Dolphin after two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear gloss
Attachment 336175Attachment 336176
Attachment 336177

I can't see much difference at all with either spray. Using a brush-on as Dan mentioned would no doubt apply more varnish and probably give better results.

Worth testing surely.
To be honest, digital cameras pick up all the little fine graining that the naked eye doesn't. Nor the fingers.

Karl

I use Army Painter Satin spray with a fairly heavy coat, then after drying a brush on coat of their matte. Seems to work fairly well. As Dan mentions, it helps reduce the grainy feel while bringing out the colors a bit more while also giving the plane a tad more "strength" as the finishes permeate into the material.

As for warping, when the planes first were offered in the more expensive material, I had some issues that the quick dunk in hot water helped to resolved. With the newer and less expensive material, I have only had one...props on my Pfalz D.XII just will not straighten no matter how many times I try the hot water trick...but no other issues with that material and I have a couple of dozen of them now.

I wonder if it matters whether the clear base coat or coats are enamel or lacquer. I just cut ✂️ my first dozen planes out of their cages. Even though there is a little melting snow ❄️ on the ground, the sun is out and I'm going to try a lacquer coat, cage first.

Well, I tried Patricia Nemocks matte acrylic sealer - a lacquer spray that normally looks a bit glossy on painted troops. It didn't do any harm. But it also didn't improve the look very much. Next we will try a heavier glossy lacquer spray and see if that does any better.